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Most people assume a high SPF number means a sunscreen offers superior protection — but this is a misconception. SPF only measures a product’s defense against UVB rays, the cause of sunburn and certain skin cancers; it says nothing about UVA protection. That’s a significant gap, because UVA rays — while they don’t cause sunburn — penetrate more deeply into the skin and are strongly linked to premature aging and melanoma. Yet broad-spectrum UVA protection is still absent from many sun care products on the market, making SPF alone an unreliable guide to how well you’re actually protected. In this article, we share the highlights from our live interview with Dr Des Fernandes, renowned plastic surgeon, founder and scientific director of Environ Skincare.

From Medicine to Anti-Aging Sun Care

After qualifying at Witwatersrand University, Dr. Des Fernandes became a Fellow of the Royal College of Surgeons in Edinburgh and trained as a cardiac surgeon alongside Professor Christian Barnard, the first doctor to perform a heart transplant.

He’s the founder and scientific director of Environ Skincare.  Dr Fernandes also invented percutaneous collagen induction therapy — better known today as micro-needling. As the first to safely use high doses of Vitamin A and antioxidants in skincare, he founded Environ to bring these ingredients to the public, transforming the way doctors and patients treat scars, wrinkles, and aging.

Sun Care Is a Critical Issue When It Comes to Aging

“For every 1 ray of UVB there are about 800 rays of UVA.”

According to Dr. Fernandes, UVA rays are present from the moment we step outside in the morning until the evening. This means we’re exposed to them throughout the entire day.

UVB rays, by contrast, peak around midday, so a sunscreen that only filters UVB offers meaningful protection for a very limited window. Compounding the problem, even a high-SPF product needs reapplication every hour to remain effective — an expectation that simply isn’t practical for most people.

“The problem with many heavy SPF products is that they sacrifice space in the cream that could be used for UVA protection. We’re looking for smarter molecules that cover both UVA and UVB.”

Sun Care Education

In reality, SPF 15 offers ideal protection — provided it’s applied correctly. Dr. Fernandes points out that most people apply sunscreen far too sparingly, joking that if people used the amount actually required, they’d go through product fast enough to put them off beach trips altogether.

The bigger issue is consistency: sunscreen needs to be applied thoroughly to all exposed areas of the body, not just the face.

Safer Sun Protection Matters

“Other companies thought I was crazy to put antioxidants in sunscreens.”

We need protection from UVA rays, yet today’s market offers very few sunscreens that provide it. Dr. Fernandes’s RAD Activé Antioxidant Sun Cream, which has an SPF of 20, contains primarily inorganic chemicals that don’t cause skin irritation — unlike organic sunscreens, which are known to irritate the skin.

Dr. Fernandes also makes an important point: sunscreen protects the Vitamin A present in our skin. Vitamin A acts as a reset button for skin, encouraging the growth of new cells and keeping skin clear and youthful overall. Studies show that people with a high intake of Vitamin A have a 17 percent reduction in risk of developing skin cancer.

“From my perspective, sunscreen is used to protect the Vitamin A in our skin.”

Products Must Be Used in Conjunction for Best Protection

Effective sun protection isn’t about any single product — it’s about how products work together. UVB sunscreens alone are insufficient. The same is true of UVA sunscreens or antioxidants used in isolation. Vitamin A, antioxidants, and broad-spectrum sunscreen each play a distinct role, and it’s only when they’re used in combination that skin receives truly comprehensive protection.

Dr Des Fernandes, founder of Environ Skincare

Dr Des Fernandes, founder of Environ Skincare

Debunking ‘SunMaxxing’

We asked Dr. Fernandes about the “SunMaxxing” trend gaining traction on social media: deliberately pursuing a deep tan by applying little to no sunscreen and spending prolonged periods in direct sunlight. Proponents believe this maximizes their Vitamin D levels and delivers significant health benefits.

Dr. Fernandes is quick to dispel the idea — true Vitamin D “maxing” would actually cause Vitamin D toxicity.

In any case, the body’s own Vitamin A works to neutralize excess Vitamin D, making it physiologically impossible to accumulate in the way the trend implies.”

Should Women Change Their Sunscreen Protocols as They Age?

The fundamentals of sun protection remain consistent throughout a woman’s life. What may shift, according to Dr. Fernandes, is the quantity of Vitamin A used — though this is highly individual and depends on what works best for each person’s skin. In an era of social media overload, where skincare advice is abundant, but often unreliable, he emphasizes the value of consulting a qualified skin care therapist who are best placed to guide individuals on the right quantities of Vitamin A, Vitamin C, and antioxidants for their specific needs.

Sun Care Is Part of Longevity

Sun care is more than a beauty habit — it’s a long-term investment in the health and longevity of our skin. Diligent protection preserves skin’s strength, elasticity, and appearance, while significantly reducing the risk of skin cancer.

Looking Ahead

Dr. Fernandes leaves us with a straightforward final prescription: use Vitamin A daily, apply sunscreen consistently, and don’t overlook peptides — the amino acids found in advanced skincare formulations that play a vital role in skin repair and renewal.

Environ is also exploring the role of artificial intelligence, though Dr. Fernandes is clear that AI should support human expertise, not replace it — a philosophy that mirrors his broader approach to skin health: precise, considered, and always grounded in science.

Environ reminds us that skincare isn’t an occasional indulgence, but an essential step on the path to longevity.

 

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References

Higher vitamin A intake linked to lower skin cancer risk (2019) Brown University. Available at: https://www.brown.edu/news/2019-07-31/skincancer (Accessed: 11 June 2026).
Ruby Rose Eggert

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